Welcome to Copenhagen Fashion Week AW24. Here is Sonzai Studios summary of the brands to watch, the pieces we are coveting and proof that the Scandi aesthetic is here to stay.
Copenhagen Fashion Week 2024 continued to uphold its pioneering status in sustainability, building upon the introduction of 18 comprehensive sustainability standards in 2022. This initiative, a world-first in the fashion industry, set a new benchmark for sustainability practices within fashion weeks globally. These standards cover various facets of sustainability, ranging from environmental impact to social responsibility, illustrating a holistic approach to sustainable fashion.
Against the backdrop of these groundbreaking sustainability standards, Copenhagen Fashion Week 2024 showcased an array of sustainable and emerging design talents. GANNI's Future Talent initiative brought forward a cohort of designers dedicated to the future of fashion. Sarah Brunnhube the founder of STEM, who is pushing the boundaries of innovation in textiles, emphasised the urgency of industry-wide change.
"Sustainability is not just a trend; it's a necessity," they asserted.
Given all brands who show on schedule must adhere to these sustainability standards, we, as the spectators, get to simply enjoy the fashion! Therefore here is our curation of the 5 most exciting collections of the week:
HENRIK VIBSKOV
Henrik Vibskov is a renowned Danish fashion designer, artist, curator and musician. The designer's work is known for its enticing universes that crossover into art installation, scenography, costumes, video, performance and exhibitions. To us this collection is a textural masterpiece, with evidence of quality fabrications and beautiful detailing. Perhaps fashion houses should start hiring artists from different mediums, 'cause this melting pot works.
MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN
You know when you look at a collection and you can just tell the designer is an expert craftsman? This is that. We love the complex tailoring and drape in the pieces. Mark Kenly Domino Tan Studio's sustainability lies within the timeless design, crafting long-lasting pieces that survive season after season. Cut from carefully sourced, natural fabrics, each is selected for its beauty and durability, as well as its ability to alter in expression when shaped and combined in new ways.
THE GARMENT
The Garment shares a passion for minimalism and quality, for them, sustainability is about owning less by buying right. They care for quality and sustainably sourced natural and recycled fabrics. Their collections are Co2 compensated in partnership with Norwegian climate company Choose and they donate to 1% for the planet. We love their fluid tailoring and textural play.
STAMM
Stamm was founded and launched in 2022 by the Danish designer Elisabet Stamm. The brand was announced as winner of the ZSA Zalando Sustainability Award upon showing its debut FW23 runways show during Copenhagen Fashion Week. The designs are created for longevity and made with carefully sourced materials, including handmade, naturally processed Indian fabrics and recycled man-made fabrics. Transparency and traceability is also a sustainability focus of the young brand. We love the oversized silhouettes and cowboy-inspired denim.
ROLF EKROTH
Rolf Ekroth creates gender neutral clothing designed to fit various body types, promoting inclusivity while reducing waste. The brands materials are 80% sourced from dead-stock or recycled sources and he explores zero waste designs within his work. All garments are made in Finland and the Baltic countries, where ethical working conditions and fair pay are ensured. Investing in collaborations for innovation, the brand has launched Bio2X, a straw-based textile made from biomass surplus, and created a collection from waste resources with Blue Sky Lab. It's hard to pinpoint what we like most about this collection - a total feast for the eyes and senses, and we want to wear all of it.
All imagery curtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week